La Ferme de Sato is the culmination of Yoshiaki and Kyoko Sato’s dream of growing and making great wine in Central Otago, along natural principles and harnessing the philosophies and skills they have gained along the way working at a stellar roll call of the world’s finest addresses; Domaines Bizot, Matassa, Huber, Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Pacalet, Felton Road and Mt Edward.

After searching for five years, they found the perfect site on a peninsula of the Pisa Ranges on the upper slopes (295-345 masl) of Lowburn district and in 2016 proceeded to plant out 3.2ha of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc with biodynamic methods. Close-planted at 5,600 vines/ha, it is fully certified organic with BioGro and vinified at their own winery (previous to 2019, the wines were made at Rockburn and prior to that at Mt. Edward).

I had the immense pleasure to taste through the entire range leisurely and speak to Yoshiaki at length about this new age for Sato, defined by the first release of La Ferme de Sato with the 2019s. These are immensely soulful, refined and utterly exciting wines which carve out a space of their own in the fine wine pantheon whilst still remaining firmly natural wines in both technique, intent and taste. I share my thoughts below.

Schisteaux - Chenin Blanc, 13.6% abv, 1561 bottles, Pressed overnight in basket press, wild ferment in old barrels, aged 16 months, no adds except 20ppm SO2 at bottling.
Golden yellow in colour, this is brilliantly perfumed and full on the nose, bursting with intensely concentrated complexity. Quince, yellow plums, pineapple and citron form the high notes, joined by spicy oxidative aromas that hint at chermoula and fenugreek. This gives way in waves to a waxy, honeyed richness that wells up from underneath. It actually smells powerfully dense. The rich, full-bodied dry palate delivers on the promise in spades. Voluptuous in texture with mouth-coating concentration and an energy which reverberates through to a stunning finish which just lasts and lasts. The flavours flit between golden abalone, enoki and manuka honey in the most engaging way. For young Chenin vines to have expressed this much richness and power is a testament to Yoshiaki and Kyoko Sato’s work. 18.0+

Le Chant du Vent - Chardonnay, 14.3% abv, 1896 bottles, Pressed overnight in basket press, wild ferment in old barrels, aged 17 months, no adds except 19ppm of SO2 at bottling.

A similar nose to the Chenin Blanc initially, oxidative honeyed spice and ripe nectarine; it settles slowly into a more nuanced, mineral-inflected expression with white pepper and floral high tones leading to a surprisingly fresh and clean river stone, clove/cinnamon apple undertow which frames and defines the wilder notes above.
The palate has tension from the outset which gives way to mouth-filling full-bodied mid. There is evidence of fruit restraint, but the back-palate is currently reticent and unyielding. As a result, it is front-palate dominant at present. The texture is grainy, if slightly on the warm side of alcohol, but there is plenty of material here to pad out the palate as it settles into its skin in bottle. As it breathes, more delineation appears on the nose and the palate also starts to take on more of a line from start to finish. 17.0

Alyssum - Gamay, 13.5% abv, 600 bottles. All destemmed, 26 days on skins, wild ferment, 15 months in old barrels, no adds except 10ppm at bottling

An arrestingly beautiful nose, pretty and pure with bright red cherry and ripe raspberry in such concentration that they smell sweet like coulis. With air, details of potpourri and smoky, earthy minerality appear alongside the well-defined fruit. The essence of Gamay is captured here not in brightness but in the juxtaposition of that bright fruit against an unyielding bedrock of firm, stony earthiness.
The palate demonstrates an airy quality and a lightness of texture which belies the tannins present. Were it not for knowing that the wine is entirely destemmed, I would have guessed some whole bunches as there is a dried thyme herbal quality which runs through the wine (it has been suggested that wild thyme in the region might be responsible for this character in Central Otago reds). This is where the specific origins of this wine shine through; the clarity of fruit and bright acids define the lithe lines of flavour and crystalline tone of the palate. At once identifiably Central Otago, clearly Gamay and imminently drinkable - mouthwatering stuff. 17.5

Sous Bois - Cabernet Franc, 14.2% abv, 857 bottles. All destemmed, 29 days on skins, wild ferment, 15 months in old barrels, no adds except 15ppm at bottling

A daring departure from the usual red varieties planted in Central Otago, this Cabernet Franc is surely modelled more on the Loire than St.-Emilion. Aromatically, it leans into the crunchy, leafier side of the variety without losing its tell-tale crushed strawberry and shaved cedar wood notes. Unexpectedly generous in perfume and almost caressing in its delivery, it is nevertheless the firmer sibling in the range. Measured, if not particularly pronounced acidity and well-defined tannins frame the spicy red fruited mid-palate. It all comes together on the finish, pulling off crunchy and umami equally well. Strictly speaking, a does more density and complexity would take it to the next level, but the wine is artfully crafted, very well poised, and it bears remembering that this comes from young vines. In that context, this is an impressive effort. 17.5

Sur les Nuages - Pinot Noir, 3205 bottles. 10% whole bunch, 27-30 days on skins, wild ferment, 19 months in old barrels, no adds except 15ppm at bottling.

Where the other wines were bottled between 28 August and 24 September 2020, the Pinot Noir was bottled later on 3 December. Yoshiaki had concerns that it would still be closed at this stage so the wine will be tasted across several days Upon first opening, the nose was subdued, but not entirely closed, similar to light shining from the end of a tunnel. However, time in the glass allowed it to unfurl. In the middle sits an identifiably Central Otago Pinot Noir character - that vertical, starkly defined, exuberant red/black fruit core. Complexities of juniper, sumac, dark chocolate and Kenyan coffee surround this core and fill out the periphery of the senses, giving the impression of something decadent but not monolithic.
The palate grips in with fine tannins early and remains firm from start to finish - this is one to cellar and age - which is just as well because the fruit underneath is entirely unevolved. Where some other wines might have the safety of some sweet new oak to fill in the edges, this eschews that icing, opting instead to let the fruit do the heavy-lifting. There is also a hint of savoury, dried fruit on the finish which echoes some of the savoury complexities of the nose. Whilst there is no reason why you could not enjoy the wine for its structure and youthful brightness right now (there is certainly enough complexity built in here to stay engaged with it), this really needs time to come together on the palate and for the tannins to resolve into something more velvety. In time, I have no doubt this will be a thoroughly pleasurable bottle. 17.5+

For the sake of equivalence, the following scale allows for conversion from the 20 point scale I have used, into the more commonly seen 100 point scale of many other writers.

18.5 95-96 great wine of rare, outstanding quality

18 93-94 a great wine which stands apart from the rest

17.5 91-92 a very fine wine, flirting with greatness

17 90 a fine wine worth seeking out especially